Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Act II Egypt in Three Kingdoms- From the Nile to the Red Sea

Middle Kingdom Act II





Day 4


Shocked out of bed-we start this day with a phone call- "your late it's 4 am!" Apparently the front desk slept through our 3:30 am wake up call, too. We snapped out of bed and were in the lobby in 10 Min flat- not bad! We boarded our bus and were off to join the caravan towards Abu Simbel. We were the last bus to the join the caravan and jumped into pole position to lead the way. Of course we fell right back to sleep for the 3 hour drive and as the sun rose over the dessert we rolled in, ready to feast our eyes on the great temple of Ramses the III.  We had a prized tour guide to tell us about the two temples and then were given ample time to roam and admire the morning light and the amazing temple interiors. I may have experience the hieroglyphs in books but now truly appreciate there detail, dept and sincere gestures of there splendor. What an amazing culture.


By noon we were heading north back to Aswan. Our driver took us past the high dam of Aswan where the Nile floods are now in control and its yields are harvested.  Finally back to Aswan we boarded "The Melodie".

Here we will stay for three nights as we cruise north following the flow of the great Nile. We spent the afternoon an deck, soaking up the sun and reminiscing the last few days. Its was quite a task to get the days sorted!  OH! And then we rode camels!
 

In the evening, we took a 1970 station wagon"taxi" to the swankiest place in town- for an evening night cap with a few people from our tour.   A romantic view overlooking the Nile and the city of Aswan with the full moon shining bright.  Now that deserves a Manhattan!
Day 5


The boat left the docks before dawn with the moon on the wing. I woke early and poked my head out the porthole to find a hole in the night. Out of bed I bundled up and cozied into a lounge chair and watch the moon set, day break and the sun rise over the Nile.








Today we followed the Nile current and early in the morning we docked at Kom Ombo. Here we are free to roam the Temple of Sobek, a center for worship of the crocodile god.


Then, back on board, we headed North again. By mid afternoon we find ourselves at the Edfu. Here we walk 20 minutes through town and explore the Temple of Horus- one of the finest examples of temple building! Our walk back is not along the main drag- instead we head into back allies and pass the real life of Egypt. I tip my hat to our fantastic tour guide Hazem for giving us the opportunity to see the real life, and not just the tourist trail/traps. Egyptians are friendly, warm, and welcoming people.

Casting off we again headed north docking at Esna for a night to enjoy a party on the promenade. The
We cut the rug and the good times rolled!


 Day 6

By morning we were moving again north. This time we waited our turn to pass through the locks of Esna getting thought by mid morning. The rest of the day was mandatory rest and relaxation. I spent the day sitting on the roof of the bow drawing the Nile as it passed. Occasionally waving to the locals in the fields or by the river. Yes I can say "magical day".
By late in the afternoon we docked in Luxor. We then took a horse drawn carriage to Karnak Temple. Truly amazing! Over a 130 massive columns still intact and some still unfinished!



Tonight the Egyptian football team battles for the African cup. We went to a outdoor cafe to watch the match- Egypt is the victor and the 20 minute bus ride to the cafe is now a 2 hour return trip. The streets are mobbed with victory celebrations, music and parties. We were swept into the celebrations."To the Victor goes the spoils"!







Day 7
Today we rise excited to greet our donkeys. First we must board a small boat to ferry us to the west side of the Nile to where are donkeys await. We climb aboard and start our trot towards the Valley of the Kings. The donkeys know the way and quickly leave the main road treking though the sugar cane fields and meandering along to the Valley.



In the Valley our guide gives us another very educational introductionof the tombs in the Valley of the Kings. These tombs are numerous and extensive excavations that go deep into the earth. The tombs are complex caverns and every inch is covered with painted murals that have retained amazing color. We vistited Ramses III, Ramses IX and the deepest tomb of Seti I.


After The Valley of the Kings we headed to witness the art of Alabaster. Here the Artisains form the raw material of Gypsum and Calcite into stunning transpart vessels as well as carved sandstone reproduction reliefs of ancint Egypt. Before our ferry back we stop for lunch at at an authentic Egyptian kithchen for a fabulous lunch. The afternoon is open for our own discovery and we went straight to the acclaimed  Luxor Museum... Phenomenal!
As we saw the or sunset over the lower Nile we knew our adventure was about to change directions-
            
Tomorrow we were heading east to the the Red Sea. 
...ACTIII

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