Bergama in the Rain..."it's clearing up!"

February 27, 2010

Today we are off to Bergama and the ancient city of Pergamom. We rode the city ESHOT 606 bus to the main autogar and hopped on an eight lira bus to Bergama's city center, approximately 90km north of Izmir. The main autogar in Bergama is about 5 km from the city center, but not to worry, there are plenty of tour guides and taxi's if you'd like to pay for a ride, or you can take the free shuttle service. Just follow the locals.

Today's weather was not on our side.  Our first stop in Bergama, a local shop for some umbrella's. Then we headed through town, into narrow allies and had to ask a  local for directions. She was happy to lead us to where the road ended and the goat trail began. As it was pouring down rain this women wishes us well and I'm sure she thinks we are a bit crazy. We thanked her  and bid her iyi gunlar and continued up the path.  Our destination is on the top of the mountain about 5km north of the city of Bergama. We were heading to the upper Acropolis and capital of the Kingdom of Pergamon, Hellenistic period, 281–133 BC. This is were parchment paper was invented. Its library was a wedding gift from Mark Antony to Cleopatra with its 200,000 volumes.  Its theater is the steepest seating in the ancient world  with a seating capacity of 10,000.  This place is huge. We follow the goats. The path we took is not the recommended or even a suggested route to approach the city but it was the way we choose on rainy day.








We strolled up the goat path as the rain cleared. We came to a bramble fence. We crossed the fence and approached a stone house and notice a shepherd walking along the ridge. We walk up to meet him by to an ancient stone arch. He pointed us in the right direction toward the Acropolis. Up the left ridge to the barbed wire fence to a spot in the fence where we could easily pass.

As we were following his suggestions we met another shepherd who came clear across the valley to meet us.  Talk about too many shepherds in a flock! He proceeded to tell us that was not the way and insisted we went another way. He told us to follow the other bluff along the thicket, to a large rock. Walk around the rock to the right and under the pine tree there is a hole in the barbed wire fence. Mind you we have no language to communicate to either one of these guys but with enough body language and maps drawn in the mud, and shouting...no problem.

So off we went, and sure enough they were both right!  We found the big rock and under the pine was the hole in the fence. Then we were walking up the road and sure enough there is the other hole in the fence, suggested by shepherd no.1.  Note to self..when lost in the woods, ask a shepherd, they know their territory and are happy to help.

By the time we finally reached the Acropolis we were in a thick fog. Then the rain picked up and when we heard the thunder we decided this is not the best place to be walking with umbrellas. We left without seeing much of the huge city. Leaving sight seeing for another day we warmed up with a cup of tea and a taxi back down to Bergama for hot soup and dry socks.

Before we left Bergama the rain let up.  We walked over to see the the "Red Basilica" complex, or Kızıl Avlu on the Selinus River. A second century temple to the popular Egyptian god Serapisthe. It was then converted to a Byzantine church in the 4th century.  Most of it was destroyed in 717 AD but today a small mosque makes its home in one of the original towers.  As the rain started again we popped in to a local pension for Turkish coffee and a warm up by the wood stove before headed back to Izmir. 

All and all we had a great day. We will meet the Akropol again.... some sunny day!

Act II Egypt in Three Kingdoms- From the Nile to the Red Sea

Middle Kingdom Act II

Day 4

Shocked out of bed-we start this day with a phone call- "your late it's 4 am!" Apparently the front desk slept through our 3:30 am wake up call, too. We snapped out of bed and were in the lobby in 10 Min flat- not bad! We boarded our bus and were off to join the caravan towards Abu Simbel. We were the last bus to the join the caravan and jumped into pole position to lead the way. Of course we fell right back to sleep for the 3 hour drive and as the sun rose over the dessert we rolled in, ready to feast our eyes on the great temple of Ramses the III.  We had a prized tour guide to tell us about the two temples and then were given ample time to roam and admire the morning light and the amazing temple interiors. I may have experience the hieroglyphs in books but now truly appreciate there detail, dept and sincere gestures of there splendor. What an amazing culture.


By noon we were heading north back to Aswan. Our driver took us past the high dam of Aswan where the Nile floods are now in control and its yields are harvested.  Finally back to Aswan we boarded "The Melodie".

Here we will stay for three nights as we cruise north following the flow of the great Nile. We spent the afternoon an deck, soaking up the sun and reminiscing the last few days. Its was quite a task to get the days sorted!  OH! And then we rode camels!

 

In the evening, we took a 1970 station wagon"taxi" to the swankiest place in town- for an evening night cap with a few people from our tour.   A romantic view overlooking the Nile and the city of Aswan with the full moon shining bright.  Now that deserves a Manhattan!
Day 5


The boat left the docks before dawn with the moon on the wing. I woke early and poked my head out the porthole to find a hole in the night. Out of bed I bundled up and cozied into a lounge chair and watch the moon set, day break and the sun rise over the Nile.








Today we followed the Nile current and early in the morning we docked at Kom Ombo. Here we are free to roam the Temple of Sobek, a center for worship of the crocodile god.


Then, back on board, we headed North again. By mid afternoon we find ourselves at the Edfu. Here we walk 20 minutes through town and explore the Temple of Horus- one of the finest examples of temple building! Our walk back is not along the main drag- instead we head into back allies and pass the real life of Egypt. I tip my hat to our fantastic tour guide Hazem for giving us the opportunity to see the real life, and not just the tourist trail/traps. Egyptians are friendly, warm, and welcoming people.

Casting off we again headed north docking at Esna for a night to enjoy a party on the promenade. The
We cut the rug and the good times rolled!


 Day 6

By morning we were moving again north. This time we waited our turn to pass through the locks of Esna getting thought by mid morning. The rest of the day was mandatory rest and relaxation. I spent the day sitting on the roof of the bow drawing the Nile as it passed. Occasionally waving to the locals in the fields or by the river. Yes I can say "magical day".

By late in the afternoon we docked in Luxor. We then took a horse drawn carriage to Karnak Temple. Truly amazing! Over a 130 massive columns still intact and some still unfinished!

Tonight the Egyptian football team battles for the African cup. We went to a outdoor cafe to watch the match- Egypt is the victor and the 20 minute bus ride to the cafe is now a 2 hour return trip. The streets are mobbed with victory celebrations, music and parties. We were swept into the celebrations."To the Victor goes the spoils"!

Day 7
Today we rise excited to greet our donkeys. First we must board a small boat to ferry us to the west side of the Nile to where are donkeys await. We climb aboard and start our trot towards the Valley of the Kings. The donkeys know the way and quickly leave the main road treking though the sugar cane fields and meandering along to the Valley.



In the Valley our guide gives us another very educational introductionof the tombs in the Valley of the Kings. These tombs are numerous and extensive excavations that go deep into the earth. The tombs are complex caverns and every inch is covered with painted murals that have retained amazing color. We vistited Ramses III, Ramses IX and the deepest tomb of Seti I.

After The Valley of the Kings we headed to witness the art of Alabaster. Here the Artisains form the raw material of Gypsum and Calcite into stunning transpart vessels as well as carved sandstone reproduction reliefs of ancint Egypt. Before our ferry back we stop for lunch at at an authentic Egyptian kithchen for a fabulous lunch. The afternoon is open for our own discovery and we went straight to the acclaimed  Luxor Museum... Phenomenal!

As we saw the or sunset over the lower Nile we knew our adventure was about to change directions-

            

Tomorrow we were heading east to the the Red Sea. 

...ACTIII

Egypt in Three Kingdoms- From the Nile to the Red Sea

Early Kingdom: Act 1

 

 It was our first official well deserved semester break. Two weeks of freedom and we rode the magic carpet to Egypt. We booked our tour through Imaginative Travel, and our agenda was set. Arriving in Cairo late in the afternoon we had our first bargain with three different taxis. If you go to Egypt, rule number one, never take the

first price (or the fourth for that matter) on any purchase. We accepted the cheapest ride and headed into Cairo. Cairo is like NewYork city on steroids! With 20 million and only rule of the road, survival of the fittest. It's crazy. We settled into our hotel and prepared for our first adventure in Islamic Cairo.

Our first day was a walking tour of old Islamic Cairo. Taking the Metro (subway) and walked the back alleys where tourist rarely venture. We were met by curious faces and welcoming eyes.







 







We stopped for the best falafel in town,  hand made and without a store front. After winding our way out of the  dirt alleys, we toured the ancient city dwellings and the Islamic bazaar and started haggling for prices. We walked back along one of the busiest streets in the world at rush hour to find the Metro station at last. A full day deserves a cold Stella beer, an Egyptian local brew.







The next day was packed with sites. Starting early again we had a guided tour of the Cairo Museum. Extremely educational and overwhelming to see the antiquities of the Pharaohs. These were truly advanced artisans, engineers and craftsmen.

                                                               
Boarding a small bus we were off to the great Pyramids Giza. Now we can say we've been inside the Pyramids-Wow!

and of course the Sphinx! Amazing!

At the hotel we packed our bags again and headed to the train station for an overnight rail south to Aswan. This was business class seats, big and lounging. Of course they were last cleaned in 1975, but it was a smooth ride. We did our best to sleep with visions of mummies dancing in our heads.

Day 3
 

 Arriving in Aswan we found our next hotel and boarded a tiny boat for the island of Philae and the Temple of Isis. The temple, once buried in the Nile, now sits in its new location and we had a beautiful sunny morning to explore it with an informative guide. 

 As we hit the the main land we all decided we had not had enough of the Nile and choose to have lunch on a felucca and spend the afternoon sailing. This felluca was a huge futon, with reggae, sunshine and relaxation. Laid back...We sailed for a few hours and docked on the west bank to climb the sand dunes and get a birds eye view of Aswan. 

Another full day had not ended- there was still the bazaar in the evening and we took a ride to a perfumery to get some local essential oils. Now you know a day like this deserves a beer!

In Egypt, sleeping is for mummies!

Act II- We head to the Sudan border.....stay tuned!