Saturday, March 19, 2011

Nazarkoy


Not far from Izmir is the small village of Nazarkoy.  Once known as Kurudere (dry stream). The town recently changed it's name to celebrate and market its craft of nazar glass beads . The nazar is an amulet made to ward off the evil eye and are seen everywhere in Turkey.  From small nazars pinned to babies' cloths to jewelry, air fresheners and even on underwear the image is everywhere.
 



The first stop is for Turkish breakfast in a garden setting. This is a few hour event, enjoying the morning air and conversations as you graze on a great spread of cucumbers, olives, tomatoes, red peper pastes with walnuts, a variety of cheese, plenty of jams and bread. oh! and of course plenty of çay (tea). Now you are ready to see the studio and the artists in action.  


The kilns are made of mud/cob and fired with wood. Three of four artist sit on the ground around the kiln. Each has access to a few colors and reproduce beads and an alarming pace. The studio is full the sound of ringing steal as the beads are gathered, formed and slid into the annealing chambers.


After buying some beads from the artist directly,  stroll into the town for more shopping and of course... more çay.


Saturday, March 12, 2011

Efes and Claros

 
It's off to Ephesus once again! This being my tenth visit yet each time holds new memories and new discoveries. Ephesus site is still under excavation and new areas are being unveiled. This time a new area of dwelling houses across from the library was open with a few "untouched" mosaics. 


     If you head out of the hills near Efes and drive to the sea head north to the small site of Claros. This is the site of the Temple of Apollo. During the 1980's the site had some major excavations but the site sits below sea level and the battle to keep it dry has been lost to the powers of nature. This is what  submerged.


Today it looks like this:  quite a tranquil place